I stood in the crowd with my metal plate, bowl, and spoon in hand. We hungrily watched the people on the inside finish their meals. To our right, the volunteers worked hard chopping onions, mincing garlic, and peeling potatoes. As people made their way out of the dining hall, the crowd around began to buzz with energy – our time was coming. The crowd grew by the minute, getting tighter and tighter. I’ve been around long enough to know what to expect once the double doors to the dining hall opened. The first few moments I witnessed the people in front of me flow into the dining area like a stream of water. Then I was part of the massive movement. It is important to keep your feet moving so that you don’t trip and get killed in the stampede. I held my plate high above my head, with the spoon and bowl locked securely under my thumb, and I tried to maintain balance while bouncing off of everyone around me. Eventually I was thrusted into the dining hall, and I found my spot on the floor to eat. There were about 50 long rows of people waiting for their serving. Men came by with different provisions. One man had the roti, everyone put their palms up towards him and bowed their heads in gratitude and he dropped two hot pieces in their hands - a symbolic gesture. Another man came by with a steaming hot bucket and a very long ladle. He would quickly scoop the dal and throw it onto the tin trays with swift efficiency. Splashing did occur, but there was no time for tidiness. Another man came with some sort of rice porridge and another with a stewed potato concoction. Almost immediately, everyone had a plate full of food and began to eat. The servers would make laps across the rows, and if you wanted more of anything, you just nod your head, and your plate was replenished. Once we finished, we picked up our trays and made our way out of the dining hall. One man collected the spoons, another collected the trays and bowls, and a washing team went to work preparing them for the next guest. This was the scene of the langar at the Golden Temple. A langar is a free community kitchen and is a staple of the Sikh faith. The langar at the Golden Temple is the largest community kitchen in the world. On average, 50,000 to 60,000 people eat there every day. It is completely free to anyone, and nobody is turned away. It is run fully by volunteers and is operating 24 hours a day. I can’t imagine anything more unifying than sharing a common meal.
Later, I was shoved in the back of a small SUV as the 12th passenger and taken to the Wagah Border. This marks the dividing line between India and Pakistan. Every day at sunset, a ceremony is held where troops from each nation put on a display of grunts and power poses, meet face to face, and close the border gates. It was one of the most unique things I’ve ever witnessed. It was very theatrical – high leg kicks, a soldier in charge of hyping up the crowd, big strutting marches. I was put in the “VIP” section (with the other foreigners). It was a shameful demotion. The arena was packed, and the Indian crowd was truly fired up. Unfortunately, the Pakistan crowd was very small – almost non-existent. I wish I could’ve watched it from the Pakistan side. I would’ve had the best seat in the house. Regardless, it was a true spectacle to witness, especially between two nations with significant tension and conflict.
“ There are people in the world so hungry that God cannot appear to them except in the form of bread” so said Mahatma Gandhi. A hungry man sees nobody much less God!